5 Insider Tips to Explore Volterra Beyond the Main Attractions
Alabaster workshops, sea views to Corsica and the best gelato in town: our favourite corners of Volterra, from Podere Santa Renata.
The best of Volterra lies just beyond the classic sights: the artisan shops of Via Porta all'Arco, the sea view from Piazzetta dei Fornelli, Porta San Felice, the Etruscan treasures of the Guarnacci Museum and a gelato break on Via Gramsci. All five tips fit into one relaxed day on foot or two half days.
Most day visitors arrive by coach, walk from Piazza dei Priori to the cathedral and leave again by lunchtime. They miss what makes Volterra special for those who know it well: the small workshops, the hidden viewpoints and the places where locals stop for a glass of wine. As owners of Podere Santa Renata, our private holiday home 15 minutes from Volterra, our guests often ask us: "What are our favourite places in Volterra?" Here are the five tips we give them.
Key takeaways
Where? Inside Volterra's historic centre, between Porta all'Arco, Piazza dei Priori and Porta San Felice.
What? Alabaster workshops, panoramic viewpoints, local wine, Etruscan art and artisan gelato.
For whom? Couples, families and friends who want to see Volterra like residents.
How long? One full day on foot, or two relaxed half days.
Best time? All year; spring and autumn for clear views to the sea; late afternoon for golden light on the stone.
Where to park? Parcheggio La Dogana, right below Piazza dei Priori (details in the FAQ).
Your base: Podere Santa Renata, our private home near Volterra, lets you explore the town by day and relax by your private pool in the evening.
Contents
1. Explore Via Porta all'Arco and the Etruscan Arched Gate
Porta all'Arco is the most important Etruscan monument in Volterra, and the steep street leading up from it is one of the most rewarding shopping streets in town. The gate was part of a defensive wall more than 7 km long, built between the 4th and the beginning of the 3rd century BCE.
Porta all'Arco seen from outside the walls, with the three carved heads visible.
Look up at the arch: three worn stone heads still watch over the entrance. They have never been identified with certainty. The most credible theory says they show the city's protective gods, Jupiter in the centre flanked by the twins Castor and Pollux. The massive ochre sandstone blocks date from the 4th century BCE, while the grey stone arch was added in Roman times.
A story our guests love: In 1944, retreating German troops planned to blow up Volterra’s Etruscan Porta all’Arco to impede the Allied advance. After residents appealed for its preservation, the Germans agreed to spare it if the townspeople blocked it within 24 hours; overnight, they walled up the passage using paving stones removed from nearby streets, saving the gate.
What to discover on Via Porta all'Arco:
Alabaster workshops: Volterra has worked alabaster since Etruscan times. Step into the small botteghe, where artisans still carve, turn and polish the translucent stone by hand.
Art galleries: contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by local and international artists.
Small shops: handmade jewellery, ceramics, leather goods and local food products.
Life Bistrot: a plant-based restaurant if you need a break on the way up.
Our tip: don't just look in the windows. Walk into the workshops and ask the artisans about their craft. Most are happy to show you how a piece takes shape.
2. Look out to Corsica from Piazzetta dei Fornelli
Piazzetta dei Fornelli is a small panoramic square on the edge of the old town, and on a clear day you can see the sea and, with a little luck, the North of the island of Corsica. It is one of the quietest viewpoints in Volterra, far from the main tourist route.
From the stone wall, the view sweeps over the Cecina Valley and the soft hills down to the Tyrrhenian coast. The best chances for a clear view are in spring, autumn and winter, after rain or on windy days, when the haze clears from the horizon.
Our tip: come in the early evening and stay for the sunset. If you get hungry, the small Osteria Fornelli sits right on the square.
3. Porta San Felice
Porta San Felice and its old fountain, the Fonte di San Felice. From the gate, turn right and climb the stairs.
Go all the way up via Via S. Lino till Piazza dei Priori.
4. Discover Etruscan Volterra: the Guarnacci Museum, the Staccioli Archive and Piazza dei Priori
The Museo Etrusco Guarnacci holds one of the most important Etruscan collections in Italy, and its top floor ends on a panoramic terrace with a superb view over the rooftops of Volterra. Founded in 1761, it is one of the oldest public museums in Europe.
What to see in the Guarnacci Museum:
More than 600 Etruscan funerary urns carved in alabaster, tufa and terracotta.
The "Ombra della Sera" (Shadow of the Evening), a slender bronze figure of a young man that looks strikingly modern.
The urn showing Porta all'Arco: a cinerary urn depicting a siege from Greek mythology, with the gate and its three heads carved in the background.
The terrace: climb to the altana at the top of the palace for one of the finest views over the town.
Mauro Staccioli Museum Archive: a small, precious museum dedicated to Volterra's most famous contemporary sculptor, opened in 2024 in the former Oratorio del Crocifisso. Around 40 models show in miniature the monumental sculptures Staccioli placed in landscapes around the world, including several on the roads around Volterra. Check opening days before you go: it usually opens at weekends only.
Piazza dei Priori, the Cathedral and the Baptistery: finish your cultural walk in the medieval heart of the town. The Palazzo dei Priori is one of the oldest town halls in Tuscany. Just behind it, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the octagonal Baptistery of San Giovanni face each other across a quiet square.
Our tip: ask at the ticket office about the combined museum ticket. It covers several sites and saves money if you visit more than one.
5. Treat yourself on Via Gramsci: gelato and pastries
Via Gramsci is the place in Volterra for something sweet: award-winning artisan gelato at L'Isola del Gusto and traditional pastries at Pasticceria Migliorini.
Gelateria artigianale L'Isola del Gusto (Via Antonio Gramsci 3): a small artisan gelateria with award-winning flavours. Try the Crema di Ersilia, the pistachio or the hazelnut. Gluten-free cones are available.
Our tip: there is often a queue at the gelateria in summer. It moves fast and it is worth the wait.
Pasticceria Migliorini: a traditional pastry shop for a morning cappuccino with a pastry, or local biscuits to take home.
Where to get a drink with a view
For an aperitivo with a view in Volterra, our two favourites are Café Etruria next to the Enrico Fiumi Archaeological Park and Bar I Ponti on Viale dei Ponti.
Café Etruria (Via di Castello 11, opposite the entrance of Parco Archeologico Enrico Fiumi): a rooftop terrace at the highest point of town. Combine it with a walk through the park, the green heart of Volterra, between the Etruscan acropolis and the Medici Fortress.
Bar I Ponti (Viale dei Ponti): a classic bar on the panoramic promenade, with a beautiful view of the iconic Volterra skyline and the hills of the Colline Metallifere.
Overview: plan your day in Volterra
Tip | Ideal for | Time needed | Best moment | Book ahead? |
Via Porta all'Arco | Shopping, alabaster, art lovers | 1 hour | Anytime | No |
Piazzetta dei Fornelli | Photographers, couples | 20 minutes | Clear days, anytime. Best time: sunset | No |
Guarnacci Museum, Staccioli Archive, Piazza dei Priori | History and art lovers, families | 2–3 hours | Midday or rainy days | No; check opening days on Google Maps for the museums or ask the tourism office on Piazza dei Priori |
Via Gramsci sweets | Everyone, especially children | 20 minutes | Afternoon | No |
Café Etruria or Bar I Ponti | Aperitivo with a view | 1 hour | Early evening on sunny days | No |
Suggested one-day route:
Park at La Dogana → Porta all'Arco and its workshops → Piazzetta dei Fornelli → Porta San Felice → lunch → Guarnacci Museum and its terrace → gelato on Via Gramsci → Piazza dei Priori and the Cathedral → aperitivo at Bar I Ponti → back to the pool at Podere Santa Renata.
FAQ: visiting Volterra
What are the best things to do in Volterra beyond the main sights? Explore the alabaster workshops on Via Porta all'Arco, enjoy the view from Piazzetta dei Fornelli, visit the Guarnacci Museum and stop for gelato on Via Gramsci.
Where can I park in Volterra? The most central option is the underground Parcheggio La Dogana at Piazza Martiri della Libertà, a short walk from Piazza dei Priori and open 24 hours.
Another good option is the car park near the Teatro Romano, below Porta Fiorentina. In high season, when everything is full, park at the old Volterra station (Parcheggio Stazione, Piazzale Ginori Conti), where the coaches park, and walk up to the centre.
Can I drive into Volterra's historic centre? No. The historic centre is a limited traffic zone (ZTL) reserved for residents. Cameras check the entrances, and fines are sent home even to foreign drivers. Park outside the walls and walk in.
How much time do I need in Volterra? One full day or two half days cover all five tips at a relaxed pace.
Where can I see alabaster being made in Volterra? In the artisan workshops along Via Porta all'Arco and in the surrounding streets. Many artisans welcome visitors and explain their craft.
Is Volterra worth visiting with children? Yes. Volterra is a child-friendly city because of its pedestrian streets. There is a playground in Parco Enrico Fiumi and, of course, the gelato on Via Gramsci.
Where should I stay to explore Volterra? A holiday home in the countryside near Volterra is the ideal base. Our private country home, Podere Santa Renata, lies just 15 minutes from Volterra. With its own pool, it lets you explore the town by day and enjoy total privacy in the evening.
Conclusion: see Volterra like a resident
Volterra rewards those who slow down. Ramble in the streets, look out to the beautiful view over the Tuscan rolling hills from a quiet square, These are the moments our guests tell us about long after their holiday.
One last tip: Volterra is usually about 2°C cooler than at our holiday home, Podere Santa Renata, which is located at a lower elevation. Sitting approximately 531 meters (1,742 feet) above sea level, Volterra can get a little chilly in the evenings, even in summer. We therefore recommend bringing a light jacket when visiting the town.
Ready to discover them yourself? Podere Santa Renata is your private retreat 15 minutes from Volterra. There are two listings for our home: the ground floor for up to 6 guests or the full house for up to 10 guests. In both cases the house is entirely yours, with no other guests on the property and direct access to the private pool. We share our personal guide to authentic Tuscany with every guest.
Written by Aurélie, co-owner of Podere Santa Renata. Last updated: 5 November 2026. Follow us on Instagram Follow us on Facebook
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